Mulberry Rules Again At London Fashion Week
by Josh Newis-Smith
Roll up, roll up, it's London Fashion Week!
Ye-ha cow girls, London Fashion Week is serving up the sass
London Fashion Week is in full swing, here's your cheat sheet for all the latest trends, shows and celebrity sightings…
In a melting pot of historical references, Preen showcased one of the stand-out collections of London Fashion Week. One minute there was New Romantics tailoring with billowing white blouses, the next corsets over jumpers which subtly morphed the wearers form instead of excessively exaggerating it as we saw at New York Fashion Week. The show closed with a serious of looks which payed homage to your grandmother's 1970 bedspread, with a series of quilts re-fashioned into asymmetric coats. For when the Preen woman wants to peel herself away from her home comforts and hit the disco, there were bright red silk dresses with sequin top underlays, which gave a whole new meaning to alternative after-hours dressing.
Roland Mouret Rolled Back Into Town
Aptly, to celebrate his 25th anniversary, Roland Mouret served up the most sophisticated cocktail styling during his London Fashion Week return. His penchant for structured dresses, which trace their wearer's body beautifully came to the fore, but were accessorised with chokers for a slightly racy nod. For those who want a more relaxed option, Mouret showcased a series of terrific tailored trousers, all were conservative at the front but party at the back, with zip detailing revealing a flared hem. Welcome home, Roland!
Topshop's Instant Hits
Set to the soundtrack of Ciara's 'One, Two, Step', Topshop Unique made it feel like the early noughties all over again with lilac floral dresses with cut-out backs, topped off with poker straight hair. Elsewhere famous dynasty offsprings, Sistine Stallone and Lottie Moss, modelled clothes that can be described as 'at one glance classy and the next flashy', with shearling coats undone to reveal bright striped bodies and the most sophisticated of evening cut-out dresses, which freed the nipple in so many ways. The Topshop girl is just too sexy for boring things like decorum.
Mulberry Takes The High Ground
The dressing-like-your-grandmother thing has gathered pace in recent times but, for Mulberry, this was not eclectic, slightly bonkers, granny but a refined older woman. The collection was as if the queen's closet had been raided with woolen pastel socks slipped into low block heels with added pearl safety pins, checked a-line skirts, rust tone crochet dresses with tea cosy-esque collars and, continuing the British designer's love affair with 70s bed spreads, quilting made its way into oversized capes and long length dresses. For a brand that prides itself on creating must-have accessories, there were plenty of new "it" products on display in all shapes and sizes; from large polished leather gym bags to mini circular crocodile bags with braided scarf straps and even the odd coin purse. The most coveted accessory, though? The sunglasses with encrusted arms.
David Koma's Sky-High Sexiness
David Koma blasted his chainmail looks into the future with a series of red carpet-ready dresses, which stayed true to the form of their wearers and flashed the flesh via cut-outs and split hems for punctuation. The legs that appealed most, though, were the trousers with added strapping, making for a tailored dominatrix look.
Temperley's Sound Of Music
High on the hills was Alice Temperley who seemed to take inspiration from Julie Andrews's iconic role. There were evening looks for debutantes who were 16 going on 17, lederhosen-inspired high-waisted trousers with braces and for after hours nuns? Sequin jumpsuits with pussybow blouses underneath.
Versace Pumped Up The Volume For Versus
Showing in Kensington Olympia, Donatella Versace turned her show into an East London-esque rave. The music was pumping, the likes of Rocco Richie and Jourdan Dunn were gathered and, given the brand's links to Zayn Malik, it was no surprise to see Gigi Hadid open the show and her sister, Bella, close it. The Versus girl uniform? Unapologetic attire with the Versus label appearing across the necks of racy evening dresses, puffed up puffa jackets and industrial block-heeled sandals.
Emila Wickstead's New Dress Code
The designer, well known for her eveningwear, drove her dresses into a slightly different lane by introducing denim. It might not sound ground breaking to you, but for Wickstead, who's signature is modern twists on bygone eveningwear, showing high-waisted dreamy denim was a change of pace. But it was the bright red backless jumpsuit that had our sirens ringing. Divine, as per.
J.W. Anderson's Ace Accessories
What J.W. Anderson doesn't know about creating a coveted accessory just isn't worth knowing. The designer's accessories have become money-makers for his own brand and Loewe, under his creative direction. This time the trademark shapes had added frivolity by way of fringing and ribbons. Our advice? Get on the waiting list right now.
Gareth Pugh Diversified
In an underground bunker set, Pugh showed a selection of billowing black bin bag capes, officer hats and razor sharp-shouldered jackets for superhero power dressing at its most menacing. 'Build that wall' chanting made for an alarming soundtrack and was sliced between Queen, Nirvana and Madonna. All that, plus diverse casting, got us thinking about the bigger picture.
Henry Holland Went Political
Nothing is more on trend now than making a political statement. But, given Henry Holland's penchant for signature slogan tees, you would have expected a more direct statement from the quiff master's show. Instead, he took the high road all the way to mid-west America for, as he put it backstage, "a love letter to America." Stripped shirt dresses with added fringing, bright and beautiful shearing coats and checked mini skirts were topped off with cowboy hats.
Eudon Choi Introduced Hungover Chic
It's hungover/still drunk styling at its best. Take one jumper, put your arm correctly in one armhole and throw the other one over your shoulder in a zero f**ks given fashion. That wasn't the only twist on a style staple at Eudon Choi, the Korean designer rehashed the shirt – be it with gathered waists, off-centre buttons or asymmetric neck ties. The designer also introduced bags that double up as jewellery, with clutches accessoried with attached bracelets. It's safe to say Eudon Choi is like a fine wine, his work is getting even better with age.
When You Say Honey, Ashley Williams Says G!
Ashley Williams loves a bit of pop culture and you'd be forgiven for thinking that her tracksuit ensembles, accessorised with futuristic sunglasses, could have been inspired by the greatest rapper to come out of "North Weezy."
Keep checking InStyle.co.uk for all the London Fashion Week news and gossip.